Blog @ the Nelson-Atkins

Whether working with a celebrity or doing a fashion shoot, Edward Steichen was a master storyteller. The exhibition Edward Steichen – In High Fashion is a grand collection of stories from the glamorous days of the early 20th century.

Through simple backdrops and a few well-placed props, Steichen created a narrative for every image whether it was a fashion shoot, a portrait of a famous figure or even a pair of shoes.

For the many celebrities and public figures he photographed, he embraced the sitter’s persona in the setting and pose.

For instance, silent film star and “America’s Sweetheart” Mary Pickford leans demurely on a chair looking slightly to an angle. She smiles shyly with a finger gently touching her lips. A bouquet of flowers emphasizes her fresh and youthful image.

Hanging right next to her is “Mexican actress” Lupe Vélez, who appears to be more passionate and fiery. She looks directly into the camera, her exposed arms and legs covered by only her jewelry and the fringe of her dress. Dramatic lighting highlights her skin, creating mysterious shadows and contours.

Setting was so important to Steichen that he designed a piano for use in his studio.

Here, Steichen has posed a model in a black dress next to the piano and a black statue.

The curve of the model is accentuated by the curve of the piano lid which contrasts with the linearity of the podium and statue in the background.

The galleries of In High Fashion are filled with stories. Be sure to come and discover them for yourself.

Images: Edward Steichen (American, b. Luxembourg, 1879-1973). Actress Mary Pickford, 1934. Courtesy Condé Nast Archive, New York. © 1934 Condé Nast Publications.

Actress Lupe Vélez, 1932. Gelatin silver print. Courtesy Condé Nast Archive, New York. © 1932 Condé Nast Publications.

“Black”: Model Margaret Horan in a black dress by Jay-Thorpe, 1935. Gelatin silver print. Courtesy Condé Nast Archive, New York. © 1935 Condé Nast Publications.

High fashion and Hollywood glamour have hit the walls of the Nelson-Atkins.

Edward Steichen – In High Fashion displays more than 150 black and white photos from the 1920s and 1930s and features celebrities, socialites, politicians, artists and models in stylish clothes and dramatic settings.

Steichen was mid-career when he became chief photographer for Condé Nast’s fashion and society magazines Vogue and Vanity Fair in 1923.

His mastery of lighting and staging techniques kept pace with the modernization of art and fashion to create a new style that revolutionized the field.

The galleries for In High Fashion are as sleek and stylish as the photos themselves. Even the wall colors evoke haute couture: Silver Mist, Vintage Wine and Black Beauty.

There is a swanky lounge area furnished with luxurious chairs in the style of Le Corbusier and other early 20th century modern designers. (This fabulous furniture was loaned to us by Museo, a local furniture store.) After you view the exhibition, you may relax and flip through the exhibition catalogue as well as books about Chanel, Poiret and Vionnet, designers whose creations were featured in many of the photographs.

There’s also an 11-minute silent film playing on a loop. Edward Steichen – America’s Foremost Photographer by Irving Browning is from the George Eastman House Motion Picture Collection.

The film is fascinating. It shows Steichen and his assistants working with a model in the studio. A typical day begins as Steichen pulls up in a beautiful convertible and gives a jaunty tip of his hat to the camera. Once inside the studio, the action is nonstop.

From discussing the shoot with the model to adjusting the lights to examining the proofs, Steichen’s keen eye is involved in every step.

One of my favorite scenes shows an assistant loading and reloading the film plates at high speed. The narration explains that “He [Steichen] and his assistant work with the precision of a machine gunner.”

The end product is much more elegant than the process. Steichen’s attention to detail is evident in every image.

Image: Edward Steichen (American, b. Luxembourg, 1879-1973). Model Marion Morehouse in a dress by Louiseboulanger with jewelry by Mauboussin, 1929. Gelatin silver print. Courtesy Condé Nast Archive, New York. © 1929 Condé Nast Publications.